Looming off the western coast of Norway, the islands of the “Lofoten Wall” are tall and rugged. Towns like Leknes are tucked wherever there’s a flat place. Watch for wooden racks air-drying the bounty of cod from the winter fishery. Artists have flocked here, drawn by the majestic light that sets the peaks aglow. To the south, the tidal currents swirling among the islands sometimes consort to give birth to the legendary maelstrom whirlpool.