A bit of old Caribbean charm on Guadeloupe’s quiet side. The single street is lined with shops supplying visitors staying in villas in the hills. In the park most days, a local legend sells succulent home-made tropical fruit ice creams. And often a makeshift table set across the back of a pickup truck serves as the counter for vending slices of fresh wahoo or kingfish sliced to order from a fish that was swimming an hour ago. A walk over the hill outside town leads to a surprisingly deserted, spectacular beach.