Naousa, on the Cyclades island of Paros, is an atmospheric resort embodying much of what visitors expect in the Greek Isles. The whitewashed houses, picturesque Venetian castle ruin slowly eroding into the harbor, the cobbled streets and the Agios Antonios church are present and accounted for. The fishing harbor lined by open-air restaurants displays the requisite racks of drying octopus. The good news is that they are surprisingly traditional, because the press of tourists in the summer are mostly vacationing Athenians. And a lot of them club all night and sleep late, so mornings are refreshingly uncrowded. Visit the small Byzantine Museum to see the traditional liturgical artwork of the Cyclades. The newish Wine Museum is also a winery. Then sit down at one of those waterfront spots and try the local specialty, gouna, which is grilled dried mackerel.