Entering Peel Fjord from the Sarmiento Channel in southern Chile, your ship veers into the branch called Asia Fjord. As you cruise deeper into the fjord, the water’s surface is dappled with floating ‘bergie bits’ of ice, and occasional larger growlers. Meanwhile the steep slopes on either side are tinseled with lacy waterfalls flowing from the snow-frosted peaks above. Ahead, two ochre slopes cradle a glowing blue-white face of cracked and fissured ice two kilometers across and hundreds of feet high, spilling with geologic slowness from the South Patagonian Ice Field far up the valley. Occasionally a huge shard of ice falls silently into the sea, followed seconds later by the delayed sound of its crack and thunder. You are in the midst of Chile’s Bernardo O’Higgins National Park, the nation’s largest protected region.